Mumbai's milestones

The story of Mumbai's forgotten heritage milestones

Mumbai’s old milestones are among the many victims in the city's tale of historic amnesia. “The milestones were built over two hundred years ago on the arterial roads leading south from north Mumbai,” explains historian Saleem Ahmadullah, who has done extensive research on such less celebrated aspects of the city’s historic heritage. 

These milestones today are an endangered lot - While some milestones have faded away into oblivion, others have mysteriously disappeared. There are about eight to ten existing milestones that dot the city today from Dhobi Talao to Prabhadevi.

Several years ago, the idea of relocating all the markers to a museum had been floated. “I had opposed it then, saying the milestone should be preserved ‘in situ’, in it’s original location. But seeing the way things have gone, I regret that decision,” admits Ahmadullah.

This is an excerpt from a piece originally published in The Times of South Mumbai (a publication by The Times of India)

Photo credits: acewings.tumblr.com

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Food by the Clock

A bun maska stall, most famous for its only-morning timings, Britannia, where lunch is the most important (and only) meal of the day, a roadside roll stall that come alive when the sun goes down... in this era of 24-hour establishments, it is the odd restaurant that restricts business hours.

Hop on for a tour of eateries in downtown South Mumbai that work on a timetable of their own.

Breakfast Only:

Bun-maskawalla at Churchgate station, in an alley next to the Passenger Ticketing Building 

Timing: 6:30 am onwards, through the morning.

In a city saturated with roadside foodstalls, there are the mediocre, and then there are the truly memorable. Abdul Aziz's bun-maska falls into the latter category. His humble stall has over the years become a landmark in Churchgate and a favourite for commuters.
Its 19-year history, including a MGCM-triggered location change has not prevented this unassuming bun-maska stall from developing a loyal fan following.

Must try: The regular bun-maska, generously laden with dollops of butter. Cheese and jam varieties are also popular.



Open for Lunch

Britannia, Ballard Estate, Fort

Timings: 11:30 am to 4 pm, Monday to Saturday

Tucked away in a quiet corner of town, admist swanky corporate houses, this is one restaurant trapped in a time bubble.
Started in 1923 by Rashid Meherwan Kohinoor, it has retained the glorious old world charm. Britannia (top right pic) is the quintessential Irani joint, complete with the incandescent light bulbs, rickety wooden furniture and marble-topped tables. The authentic Parsi food makes it a must-visit.

Must Try: The berry pulao is the restaurant's signature dish. The berries are imported all the way from Iran. As the story goes, the late wife of the original proprietor, Mrs. Kohinoor, spent seven years in Tehran, Iran and brought back with her the recipe for the berry pulao. Britannia is the only restaurant across India which serves authentic berry pulao. The dhanshak-rice is also worth a mention.


Late night dinner

Ayubs, Kala Ghoda, near Rhythm house

Timing: 6:30 pm to 1:30 am

Calling all creatures of the night! If it is good food you seek, then all roads lead to this unassuming roadside joint. Ayubs rolls up their shutters after sunset and is famous for
satisfying nocturnal hunger pangs.

Don't expect any fancy seating or service, just the assurance of some unforgettable food, eaten against the hood of your car.

Must try: Ayubs was founded in 1982, and since then, has grown into a legend of sorts on the street-side food circuit. Patrons swear by the paneer roll, grilled on an open tawa.

Originally published in the Times of India

Ten interesting things to do in South Mumbai

Whether you're from Mumbai or just visiting the city, here's a list of ten interesting things to do in the heart of South Bombay (Mumbai) - guaranteed to make you fall in love (madly and irrevocably) with the legend that is South Bombay.

If you love this post, you will probably love reading my book on Mumbai titled 'Cutting Chai and Maska Pao: The Way It Is Said In Mumbai Only' published by Harper Collins India.

The iconic Marine Drive, South Mumbai

1. Ride a double-decker BEST bus. This yea (2103) Mumbai's double-decker buses completed 75 years on the roads. Today, they are a dying breed as only a few ply on select routes - but even so, Mumbai is one of the few cities where they are still in service. Sit on the upper deck in the front seat and enjoy the view!

2. Eat your heart out at an Irani Cafe - Britannia at Ballard Estate (open only for lunch, you must try the famous berry pulao), Military Cafe (Fort, near the stock exchange). Soak in the wonderful old world charm created by the high ceilings, heavily mirrored walls, marble-topped tables and typical black wooden chairs.

Military Cafe, Fort. Image courtesy maddy06.blogspot.in

3. A restaurant? A bus? Tuck into some typical missal pav in a BEST bus-turned-restaurant at Fort (Opposite the High Court). Wash it down with some pineapple Energee from a familiar street-side booth.  

4. Wander into Esplanade Mansion (formerly the Watsons Hotel) and piece together fragments of history. Built in 1871, the hotel was once a majestic structure ahead of its time that served as the grandest hotel in Mumbai – then Bombay. As popular folklore suggests, Jamsetji Tata, was refused entry to Watson's one evening due to the hotel's 'Europeans only' policy. Humiliated and angered, Tata built the Taj Mahal Hotel down the road.

The Esplanade Mansion. Photo courtesy The Telegaph.

5. Grab a beer at Café Leopold (Claim to fame: Shantaram and 26/11) or Café Mondegar (Claim to fame: The giant Mario Miranda mural)

6. Watch the sun set on the Marine Drive skyline amid a light drizzle. Admire out the art-deco buildings that line the road - Interestingly, this is the second-largest number of art-deco buildings in the world after Miami, US.

7. Feast on the best brownies in town: Theobroma! Located on Colaba Causeway at Cushrow Baug.

8. Ride in the historic elevators of Fort—some dating to more than back a century. Check out the grand old elevators at Kodak House (on DN Road), Ripon Club (Cuffe Parade), Mumbai GPO, Army & Navy Building (Kala Ghoda) for a ride back into time.

9. Bring out your arty side! Explore the numerous art galleries that dot Rampart Row or have your portrait painted by an artist outside Jehangir Art gallery

The portrait artists of Kala Ghoda. Image courtesy Mid-Day

10. Visit the Knesseth Eliyahoo Synagogue at Kala Ghoda. Built in 1885, the synagogue is now nearly 130 years old. This beautiful powder blue building is tucked away in a bylane off Kala Ghoda (near Rhythm House).