Thursday 25 August 2011

From Phnom Penh, With Love

A trip through the streets of Cambodia's capital city

Phnom Penh refuses to abide by the regular traveler clichés. 
There are no beaches, and no beautiful sunsets. Most tourist landmarks are remainders of Cambodia’s bloody Khmer Rouge Regime. The traffic is menacing (interestingly, every other car is a Toyota) and the locals usually in too much of a hurry. Where then, you may ask, does Phnom Penh’s beauty lie?



Phnom Penh: Barbed wired reality


Phnom Penh is a gritty tale of survival. A city that is heartbreakingly real as it grapples with the ghosts of an unfortunate past. There are stories waiting to be told, adventures waiting to be lived in its manic streets.
 
Glorious history

Visitors to Phnom Penh must tour the Royal Palace, home to the magnificent Silver Pagoda and The Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The Palace is in stark contrast with the gory and barb-wired Khmer era tourist spots. The intricate designs and gorgeous Cambodian architecture display the country’s rich artistic heritage at its best. Located across the street from the Royal palace, The National Museum of Cambodia houses several beautiful artefacts and artworks. Do pay special attention to the original statue of the Leper King, which was originally installed in Angkor’s Terrace of the Leper King.

The graceful and towering Wat Botum pagoda, built in the 15th century, is a glorious example of Cambodian architecture. It is also historically significant because the infamous Pol Pot lived and studied here in his younger days.

Khmer Rogue


For those who want to learn about the bloody days of the Khmer Rouge rule, Phnom Penh has many dark stories to tell. The Tuol Sleng Prison / Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison) is a horrific remainder of the Khmer Rouge regime. This former school was converted into Cambodia’s deadliest prison under the Rouge. Nearly 15,000 people were tortured and killed here; only eight made it out alive. Gruesome torture devices were stationed in what were once classrooms. Blood stains are still visible on the walls. The museum display that has been created within the prison buildings tells heartbreaking stories of the victims.

Pol Pot's regulations for prisoners: At Tuol Sleng

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, located about 40 minutes outside the city, are not for the fainthearted. The Fields are marked by a giant Buddhist Stupa. Eerily, the Stupa is constructed of glass and houses thousands of human skulls that were discovered at the site.

Explore and unwind


An interesting stopover is Phnom Penh’s Russian Market, where designer ware is available at hugely discounted prices. The indoor market, a maze of tiny alleys and tinier shops offers a full fledged bargain-happy shopping experience. Beware of fakes, touts and pickpockets. There’s nothing Russian about the market, in case you are wondering. But it does happen to offer the best cold coffee in town!

Phnom Penh’s famous Riverside (known as Sisowath Quay) winds alongside the Mekong River. Settle down by the riverside and watch the sun go down on the city, an unexpected moment of peace in the frenzied metropolis. The street opposite the Riverside is home to several cafes, shops and eateries. The famous ‘Pub Street’ (though not as lively as its similarly named counterpart in Siem Reap) is located just off the Riverside main road. There are several quaint bookstores dotting the promenade. Browse through the shelves of yellowing books, or settle down at the large dining table (with mismatched chairs) and order a tea.

Unusual sights

Exploring Phnom Penh’s streets by foot will leave you with several unexpected sights. We chanced across a park where several hundred people (across age groups) were simply dancing together, led by a jumpy young woman in orange tights. Join in if you’re particularly adventurous—or if doing snazzy hip-hop moves with a crowd of perfect strangers features on your bucket list.

"One World Only," says this quirky tuk-tuk on the streets of Phnom Penh

Although Phnom Penh’s skyline is rather modest, the number of antennae and communication wires sticking out of the roofs of homes is mind-blowing! When combined with a Cambodian sunset, some particularly fascinating silhouette shots are possible.

Original Article as published on Mumbai Mirror
Photographs © Mithila Mehta