Mumbai's milestones

The story of Mumbai's forgotten heritage milestones

Mumbai’s old milestones are among the many victims in the city's tale of historic amnesia. “The milestones were built over two hundred years ago on the arterial roads leading south from north Mumbai,” explains historian Saleem Ahmadullah, who has done extensive research on such less celebrated aspects of the city’s historic heritage. 

These milestones today are an endangered lot - While some milestones have faded away into oblivion, others have mysteriously disappeared. There are about eight to ten existing milestones that dot the city today from Dhobi Talao to Prabhadevi.

Several years ago, the idea of relocating all the markers to a museum had been floated. “I had opposed it then, saying the milestone should be preserved ‘in situ’, in it’s original location. But seeing the way things have gone, I regret that decision,” admits Ahmadullah.

This is an excerpt from a piece originally published in The Times of South Mumbai (a publication by The Times of India)

Photo credits: acewings.tumblr.com

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Cutting Chai Wisdom

Cutting Chai Wisdom: When Less is More

The Man of the Moment

I was in Belgaum, Karnata for a day, and being the ultra-hyper-restless one that I am, decided to wander about its streets. Suddenly, it began to rain furiously and I was forced to take refuge under the roof of a tiny tea stall.

That's where I met the fabulous Mr. Anand.

Mr. Anand is a roadside tea seller who could easily qualify off as a philosopher. 

A faint smile on his face, he told me, "These days, everyone wants bigger, better, more. No one is satisfied with anything. The little glass of cutting chai is one of the few places where people actually find satisfaction in less, rather than more. 

For only four rupees, I sell them a few moments of peace."

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Food by the Clock

A bun maska stall, most famous for its only-morning timings, Britannia, where lunch is the most important (and only) meal of the day, a roadside roll stall that come alive when the sun goes down... in this era of 24-hour establishments, it is the odd restaurant that restricts business hours.

Hop on for a tour of eateries in downtown South Mumbai that work on a timetable of their own.

Breakfast Only:

Bun-maskawalla at Churchgate station, in an alley next to the Passenger Ticketing Building 

Timing: 6:30 am onwards, through the morning.

In a city saturated with roadside foodstalls, there are the mediocre, and then there are the truly memorable. Abdul Aziz's bun-maska falls into the latter category. His humble stall has over the years become a landmark in Churchgate and a favourite for commuters.
Its 19-year history, including a MGCM-triggered location change has not prevented this unassuming bun-maska stall from developing a loyal fan following.

Must try: The regular bun-maska, generously laden with dollops of butter. Cheese and jam varieties are also popular.



Open for Lunch

Britannia, Ballard Estate, Fort

Timings: 11:30 am to 4 pm, Monday to Saturday

Tucked away in a quiet corner of town, admist swanky corporate houses, this is one restaurant trapped in a time bubble.
Started in 1923 by Rashid Meherwan Kohinoor, it has retained the glorious old world charm. Britannia (top right pic) is the quintessential Irani joint, complete with the incandescent light bulbs, rickety wooden furniture and marble-topped tables. The authentic Parsi food makes it a must-visit.

Must Try: The berry pulao is the restaurant's signature dish. The berries are imported all the way from Iran. As the story goes, the late wife of the original proprietor, Mrs. Kohinoor, spent seven years in Tehran, Iran and brought back with her the recipe for the berry pulao. Britannia is the only restaurant across India which serves authentic berry pulao. The dhanshak-rice is also worth a mention.


Late night dinner

Ayubs, Kala Ghoda, near Rhythm house

Timing: 6:30 pm to 1:30 am

Calling all creatures of the night! If it is good food you seek, then all roads lead to this unassuming roadside joint. Ayubs rolls up their shutters after sunset and is famous for
satisfying nocturnal hunger pangs.

Don't expect any fancy seating or service, just the assurance of some unforgettable food, eaten against the hood of your car.

Must try: Ayubs was founded in 1982, and since then, has grown into a legend of sorts on the street-side food circuit. Patrons swear by the paneer roll, grilled on an open tawa.

Originally published in the Times of India

A Dummy's Guide to Southeast Asia's Beaches

Beaches - From the obvious to the obscure and everything in between.

Calling all you beach bums! Endless stretches of sun kissed beaches, clear seas and the blue skies overhead—South East Asia’s beaches have all this and more to offer. Whether you want to simply relax by the sea or dance the night away at a wild beach party, you are promised a fantastic holiday. Water sports and beautiful sunsets complete the postcard-perfect picture. So grab your sunscreen and put on those beach flip-flops as we list South East Asia’s favourite beach destinations—some well-known, others offbeat, but all breathtaking beautiful.

Bintan – Batam, Indonesia

Located 45 minutes away from Singapore by ferry, the Indonesian island of Bintan provides an instant getaway from the city. The tourist-friendly Bintan Resorts section of the island (laughingly referred to as a Singaporean outpost) allow you to relax and rejuvenate in carefully manicured surroundings. Head to Indonesia’s Batam Island, known for its wild and naughty wildlife, if you want a more riotous holiday. Batam is also famous for its tantalising seafood fare.

Phuket, Thailand

Thailand’s Phuket has become a regular stopover for those wanting to enjoy the sand, sea and surf. From quiet, untouched beaches to beaches bursting with a carnival-like atmosphere, Phuket has it all. Patong Beach is famous for its wild nightlife, while Banana Beach is home to hornbill rainforest birds and other wildlife. Nai Han Beach located in Southern Phuket is perfect to enjoy a quiet, cosy sunset. Sailing is a favourite tourist activity. Abundance of corals and marine life makes Phuket perfect for snorkelling. Offbeat adventure sports such as kite surfing and wakeboarding are also popular.

Tioman Island, Malaysia

With rolling green landscapes and virgin beaches, Malaysia’s Tioman Island is paradise. Tioman’s beach coast is divided into North and South by a small rocky hill. Local folklore demands that tourists stand on this hill (and perhaps pose for the camera) as it is believed to be the oldest area of the island. North Beach is popular with tourists, abounding with shops and tiny cafes, while South Beach is relatively deserted. Scuba diving is a popular activity at Tioman, thanks to the unspoilt clear waters.

Bali, Indonesia

With its irresistible mix of beautiful temples, colourful festivals, endless beaches and adventure sports, Bali packs in something for everyone. Culture junkies will enjoy touring the island’s many temples, with their towering pagoda-shaped roofs with multiple tiers. Every Balinese temple is unique, which adds to their beauty. Water sports, right from scuba diving to surfing, abound on Bali’s white sand beaches. Adrenalin junkies can trek to the top of Mt. Batur, an active volcano situated in North Bali. Get a real feel of Bali by enjoying an evening of traditional local dance, or by treating yourself to a Balinese massage by the beach.

Koh Pha Ngan, Thailand

It is not only the white sand beaches, picturesque fishing villages and marine adventures that bring tourists to Koh Pha Ngan. This Thai island is best known as for its infamous Full Moon Parties. Haad Rin beach is converted into a swinging, dancing, substance-fuelled blur of sinful decadence and merriment. With pulsing music, guests from all over the world, fire eating, strobing lights and the sand below your feet, this is one heck of a party!

Mui Ne, VietnamThis largely unexplored beach in South Vietnam (near Ho Chi Minh City) is perfect for travellers looking for a relaxed, cosy holiday. Do visit the Sand Dunes, a short drive from the town. Slide down the dunes if you’re up for an adventure, else admire the coastal view from your sandy vantage point. Don’t miss seeing sunset from the dunes, it is a phenomenal sight. The Mui Ne fishing harbour is a delightful place, where you can purchase fresh seafood or watch the bay with hundreds of colourful boats happily bobbing.

Published on Live In Style

The Little Boy who Could

Little Dhanush, sitting snug in the auto

This morning, as I caught an auto to work, I found a surprise waiting for me in the back seat. 

Dhanush, a tiny eight-year-old boy, sat huddled up in the corner of the seat. 

He greeted me with a shy grin and half wave. Curious, I settled in and we went on our way. 

Turns out that little Dhanush loves to travel to new places—but his parents cannot really afford extensive travel. He’s hence befriended all the auto drivers of his neighbourhood and tags along with them whenever he doesn’t have school.

Head sticking out of the auto, eyes wide with excitement, he soaks in the new places and faces - Enjoying every minute of the bumpy ride.

If you really want to travel, you will find a way to make it happen.

Just like Dhanush.

Magical Malacca

Malacca (‘Melaka’ in Malay), most famous as the home of the big, bad pirates who plagued waters of the Straits of Malacca, is an interesting visit for the traveler looking for an adventure. 

We were two girls (just for effect's sake, we bought two huge hats to wear) who explored the numerous lanes and bylanes of beautiful Malacca, soaking in the beautiful atmosphere in every moment. Malacca was declared a UNESCO World heritage Site in 2008.

That's me with the hat!

Explore Malacca

The best way to see the city is on foot. Make it a point to venture through every doorway, into every little allay. Although, you may walk into people’s homes form time-to-time, Malacca will reward those with a ‘what lies around that corner?’ sense of curiosity. Clamber onto one of the city’s tuk-tuks (as a visitor, I insist you choose one with loud decorations, blaring music, flowers and flashing lights) for a crazy ride.

Much of your time in Malacca will centre on the river which winds through the city. Take a cruise down the river to get a glimpse of the city and its main buildings. Spend the evening relaxing in a charming cafe by the city or posing by the quant riverside homes and footbridges.

Heritage city

As you enter the heritage city, stop by the imposing brick-red wall which declares Malacca’s heritage status. A photograph against this wall serves as a nice I-visited-Malacca memento.

With my friend Vrisha - at the start of Malacca

The Baba and Nyonya Peranakan Museum, which housed an authentic heritage home, gives a fascinating account of the Peranakan culture and traditions. Step into the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple on Jalan Tokong, which is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia, for a moment of soul searching. The Christ Church makes for an interesting visit, as it whispers tales of colonial conflict.

Take the winding path up from the central square to St Paul’s Church. This fascinating structure is now crumbling, home to Dutch tombstones and tourist graffiti. However, the view of the city below with its rows of tiled roofs is magical. For a small sum, you can pose here with a “pirate” and his angry looking bird.

Jonker adventures

"Dubious females" alert!

Jonker Walk, lined with quaint shops selling all sorts of interesting ‘antiques,’ is nestled in the heart of Malacca. Do you fancy an unopened can of Coca Cola from 1972, or an ad for Anchor toothpaste from decades ago? Among the dust and rust, you will stumble across several fascinating — if not priceless treasures. In one dark shop, I chanced across a potion to help men “See the pitfalls of being enticed by dubious females.” Priceless! 

For someone who has never held an LP record before, the huge collection of records (to be bought at a steal) was very exciting. Be sure to check out shops selling wooden ships as well. This may be your one and only chance to own a fleet of handcrafted ships.

The Bullock Cart Bank on Jonker Walk

As the sun goes down, Jonker Walk is converted into a riotous, swinging market—known as the famous Night Bazaar. Vendors and visitors throng the area as tiny shops open up on the street. Look out for the Bullock Cart Bank, which sells stamps from exotic lands. 

If you fancy having your fortune told, do visit the local roadside palmist (of dubious authenticity, of course). Massage parlours (stick to the large, well identified ones if you don’t want a rude surprise) abound by the dozen. Foodies will have a great time eating various Malaccan street-side delicacies—right from fried potato fritters to ice kachang and fruits on sticks dipped in sinful chocolate.

Settle down at the Traveller Cafe (a tourist favourite) to savour the ambience under the starry sky. Do the salsa with a perfect stranger, or soak in the in-house band’s rendition U2 renditions. The mood is extremely relaxed, very happy, and slightly drunk—making it impossible not to have a fabulous time.

Offbeat options

Fancy flying a local fighter kite? Head to Kleblang Beach and test your kite-flying skills against the locals. If you are a tea drinker, head to the Yeetea House on Jalan Laksamana, which offers tea ceremony classes, as well as an exhaustive array of tea varieties. Ride the Eye on Melaka, a Ferris wheel styled on its more famous British counterpart, to get a birds-eye view of the city.

Spotted off Jonker Walk

For the best chicken rice ball in town, head to the red-bricked Famosa on the corner of Jonker Walk. You are guaranteed to find a long, winding queue of tourists waiting outside—but you are also guaranteed a meal worth the wait!

Article as published on Mumbai Mirror

Photographs © Mithila Mehta

Ten interesting things to do in South Mumbai

Whether you're from Mumbai or just visiting the city, here's a list of ten interesting things to do in the heart of South Bombay (Mumbai) - guaranteed to make you fall in love (madly and irrevocably) with the legend that is South Bombay.

If you love this post, you will probably love reading my book on Mumbai titled 'Cutting Chai and Maska Pao: The Way It Is Said In Mumbai Only' published by Harper Collins India.

The iconic Marine Drive, South Mumbai

1. Ride a double-decker BEST bus. This yea (2103) Mumbai's double-decker buses completed 75 years on the roads. Today, they are a dying breed as only a few ply on select routes - but even so, Mumbai is one of the few cities where they are still in service. Sit on the upper deck in the front seat and enjoy the view!

2. Eat your heart out at an Irani Cafe - Britannia at Ballard Estate (open only for lunch, you must try the famous berry pulao), Military Cafe (Fort, near the stock exchange). Soak in the wonderful old world charm created by the high ceilings, heavily mirrored walls, marble-topped tables and typical black wooden chairs.

Military Cafe, Fort. Image courtesy maddy06.blogspot.in

3. A restaurant? A bus? Tuck into some typical missal pav in a BEST bus-turned-restaurant at Fort (Opposite the High Court). Wash it down with some pineapple Energee from a familiar street-side booth.  

4. Wander into Esplanade Mansion (formerly the Watsons Hotel) and piece together fragments of history. Built in 1871, the hotel was once a majestic structure ahead of its time that served as the grandest hotel in Mumbai – then Bombay. As popular folklore suggests, Jamsetji Tata, was refused entry to Watson's one evening due to the hotel's 'Europeans only' policy. Humiliated and angered, Tata built the Taj Mahal Hotel down the road.

The Esplanade Mansion. Photo courtesy The Telegaph.

5. Grab a beer at Café Leopold (Claim to fame: Shantaram and 26/11) or Café Mondegar (Claim to fame: The giant Mario Miranda mural)

6. Watch the sun set on the Marine Drive skyline amid a light drizzle. Admire out the art-deco buildings that line the road - Interestingly, this is the second-largest number of art-deco buildings in the world after Miami, US.

7. Feast on the best brownies in town: Theobroma! Located on Colaba Causeway at Cushrow Baug.

8. Ride in the historic elevators of Fort—some dating to more than back a century. Check out the grand old elevators at Kodak House (on DN Road), Ripon Club (Cuffe Parade), Mumbai GPO, Army & Navy Building (Kala Ghoda) for a ride back into time.

9. Bring out your arty side! Explore the numerous art galleries that dot Rampart Row or have your portrait painted by an artist outside Jehangir Art gallery

The portrait artists of Kala Ghoda. Image courtesy Mid-Day

10. Visit the Knesseth Eliyahoo Synagogue at Kala Ghoda. Built in 1885, the synagogue is now nearly 130 years old. This beautiful powder blue building is tucked away in a bylane off Kala Ghoda (near Rhythm House).

DATE A GIRL WHO TRAVELS

Date a girl who travels.

The girl who read her atlas instead of bedtime stories as a child. The girl who knows the capital of Burkina Faso, correct spelling included. Who fantasizes about faraway lands and how she’s going to get there. Who spends all her rent money on air tickets.

The girl in the window seat, nose buried deep in her Lonely Planet. The girl who throws out clothes from her closet so there’s more place for her travel souvenirs. The girl who’s always somewhere else, even if only in her head.

A girl who travels will have stories. She’ll drag you down the Road Less Traveled - and have you send a postcard while you’re there. She’ll have you scaling a live volcano in the Philippines today, camping out in the Amazonian forests tomorrow. She’ll show you that there’s a certain joy in getting lost. That good old adventure is never overrated. That the best plans are unplanned. That something exciting lies around every corner. That it’s okay to miss the last train home.

And that travelling does make you a better person.

Secunderabad: A roadside political party

Work took me to Hyderabad this week. I expected Biryani and Kebabs—but what I didn't expect was to land up in the middle of a ridiculously large political celebration for Telangana on the outskirts of Secunderabad. 

Bring out 'em flags!

Hundreds of people were out on the street, dancing madly. Most of them help either a flag or a poster in one hand—and a bottle of alcohol in the other. Music blasted out of the loud speakers. A cow and an ice cream cart joined in the party. Men began doing pelvic thrusts with photographs of a well-known politician.

Politics aside, sights like this absolutely make my day! =))